Editorial Makeup: Breaking Beauty Boundaries

Editorial makeup represents the artistic vanguard of the visagiste's craft—a space where conventional beauty rules are rewritten, or deliberately broken. Unlike commercial or everyday makeup, editorial looks are created specifically for the camera, emphasizing artistic expression over wearability. In this realm, makeup transcends mere enhancement to become a powerful storytelling medium, creating visual narratives through color, texture, and form.

Understanding the Editorial Aesthetic

Editorial makeup exists primarily in fashion magazines, art publications, and avant-garde campaigns. While commercial makeup aims to sell products through accessible beauty, editorial makeup sells concepts, moods, and artistic visions. The distinction is critical:

• Commercial makeup emphasizes wearability, enhancing natural features within conventional beauty standards
• Editorial makeup prioritizes creative expression, visual impact, and conceptual relevance, often at the expense of traditional prettiness

As a visagiste approaching editorial work, your mindset must shift from "how can I make this person look beautiful?" to "how can I use this face as a canvas to express this concept?"

The Collaborative Creative Process

Editorial makeup never exists in isolation—it's part of a larger creative vision that includes photography, styling, hair, and sometimes set design. Understanding this collaborative context is essential for creating successful editorial looks.

Working with Creative Briefs

Most editorial projects begin with a creative brief—a document outlining the concept, inspiration, color palette, and mood for the shoot. As a visagiste, your ability to interpret these briefs and translate them into compelling makeup concepts is crucial.

Key elements to consider when analyzing a brief:

• The overall concept or narrative
• The specific aesthetic references (e.g., time periods, artistic movements, cultural inspirations)
• The desired emotional response
• Technical considerations (lighting conditions, color schemes, photography style)

Developing Concept Boards

Before touching a makeup brush, develop a comprehensive concept board that visualizes your makeup direction. This should include:

• Reference images that capture elements of your vision
• Color palettes and texture studies
• Sketches or digital renderings of your proposed looks
• Technical notes on execution

Share your concept board with the creative team early in the process, allowing for collaborative refinement before the shoot day.

Technical Approaches to Editorial Makeup

Editorial makeup demands both creative vision and technical mastery. The following approaches can help you create impactful editorial looks:

1. Color Theory Disruption

While traditional makeup typically follows color harmony principles, editorial makeup often deliberately disrupts these conventions:

• Use complementary colors in unexpected ways (e.g., orange eyeshadow with blue eyeliner)
• Create intentional color clashes for visual tension
• Experiment with monochromatic extremes
• Incorporate unexpected color placements (e.g., placing blush on the temples rather than cheeks)

2. Texture Exploration

Editorial makeup frequently explores texture contrasts that conventional makeup avoids:

• Juxtapose ultra-matte against high-shine elements
• Experiment with intentionally dewy, almost wet-looking skin
• Incorporate textural elements like glitter, foil, or powder in concentrated areas
• Use products in unintended ways to create textural interest (e.g., clear lip gloss on eyelids)

3. Proportion and Placement Subversion

Editorial makeup often challenges conventional feature proportions and product placement:

• Extend eyeshadow well beyond traditional boundaries
• Reimagine lip shapes beyond the natural lip line
• Place blush in unexpected areas to create unusual face structures
• Use highlighting and contouring to create sculptural effects rather than to flatter

4. Mixed Media Techniques

One of the most exciting aspects of editorial makeup is the freedom to incorporate non-traditional materials:

• Experiment with facial embellishments like rhinestones, sequins, or small beads
• Incorporate fine art materials like metallic leaf (gold, silver, or colored)
• Explore temporary face appliqués or prosthetics for structural elements
• Consider unconventional tools for application (e.g., stippling with textured sponges)

Safety note: Always ensure any non-cosmetic materials used are safe for skin contact and applied with appropriate adhesives formulated for facial use.

Executing Specific Editorial Techniques

The "Skin Focus" Editorial

Some of the most striking editorial looks center on transforming the skin itself:

Glossy Skin Technique

1. Begin with thorough skincare, emphasizing hydration
2. Apply a luminous, dewy foundation or tinted moisturizer
3. Strategically apply clear gloss to high points (cheekbones, brow bones, cupid's bow)
4. For extreme gloss effects, layer balm-based products with facial oils
5. Maintain the glossiness throughout the shoot with frequent touch-ups

Artistic Base Manipulation

1. Create intentional foundation texture by using unconventional application techniques (stippling, smudging, or dragging)
2. Experiment with multi-tonal base application—using two or more foundation shades to create dimension
3. Consider "negative space" effects by leaving certain areas of skin bare against a full-coverage base

Graphic Color Application

Bold, graphic color application is a hallmark of many editorial looks:

Color Blocking Technique

1. Use cream-based products for the most opaque color application
2. Create sharp edges with angled brushes or tape for masking
3. Layer translucent powder between color sections to prevent bleeding
4. Consider geometric shapes that interact with the model's facial structure

Color Gradients and Ombré Effects

1. Begin with the darkest shade and gradually blend into lighter tones
2. Use airbrushing for the most seamless gradient effects
3. For handheld application, use small, precise brush strokes and gradually build intensity
4. Set each layer before adding the next to maintain color integrity

Structural and Three-Dimensional Elements

Advanced editorial makeup often incorporates three-dimensional elements:

Elevated Texture Application

1. Create custom textures by mixing products with various media (e.g., mixing glitter with clear gel)
2. Apply in sculptural patterns that interact with the face's contours
3. Use setting sprays specifically formulated for glitter and heavy textures

Applied Elements Technique

1. For rhinestone or sequin application, use professional-grade skin-safe adhesive
2. Apply larger elements individually with tweezers
3. For precise pattern work, create a template beforehand
4. Test the durability of your application before the shoot begins

Advanced Technical Considerations for Editorial Work

Lighting Interaction

Editorial makeup must be created with a deep understanding of how it will interact with photography lighting:

• In studio settings with controlled lighting, you can use highly reflective products for dramatic effect
• For editorial work shot in natural light, consider how changing light conditions might affect your look
• Test how metallic and glitter elements catch light before finalizing placement
• Remember that certain colors and textures can appear dramatically different on camera than in person

Longevity and Maintenance

Even the most avant-garde editorial looks must last through a photoshoot:

• Use professional-grade setting sprays and fixatives
• For extreme looks, build in structural support (e.g., creating a base layer that helps maintain the overall look)
• Prepare touch-up kits specific to each element of your look
• For multi-look shoots, create a logical progression that allows for easy transitions

Developing Your Editorial Aesthetic

Beyond technical mastery, developing a distinctive editorial style will set you apart as a visagiste:

Finding Inspiration Beyond Makeup

The most innovative editorial makeup artists draw inspiration from diverse sources:

• Fine art movements (e.g., Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract Expressionism)
• Architectural forms and structures
• Natural phenomena and organic patterns
• Cultural and historical references
• Technological and scientific imagery

Create a personal reference library that transcends traditional beauty imagery, allowing you to bring fresh perspectives to your editorial work.

Developing Signature Techniques

Many renowned editorial makeup artists become known for specific technical approaches:

• Experiment with creating your own application tools for unique effects
• Develop custom product mixtures that create distinctive textures
• Perfect a particular color approach or placement style
• Create a methodology for translating abstract concepts into makeup designs

Building an Editorial Portfolio

For visagistes seeking to enter the editorial space, creating a strong portfolio is essential:

Test Shoots and Collaborations

Begin building your editorial portfolio through strategic collaborations:

• Connect with emerging photographers looking to build their portfolios
• Reach out to fashion design students who need makeup for their lookbooks
• Organize conceptual test shoots with clear creative direction
• Consider agency-organized test shoots for access to professional models

Documenting Your Process

In addition to final images, document your creative and technical process:

• Photograph your concept boards and preparation
• Capture behind-the-scenes moments showing your application techniques
• Record time-lapse videos of complex looks coming together
• Document the products and tools used for each look

Translating Editorial Techniques to Wearable Looks

While pure editorial makeup exists for the camera, elements of editorial techniques can be translated into more wearable interpretations:

From Runway to Reality

Consider how to adapt editorial concepts for everyday wear:

• Scale down intensity while maintaining the conceptual element
• Incorporate a single editorial technique into an otherwise conventional look
• Adapt placement to be more flattering while preserving artistic intention
• Transfer editorial color combinations to more wearable products and finishes

Commercial Applications of Editorial Techniques

Many brands now seek the editorial aesthetic for campaigns that break conventional beauty molds:

• Understand how to balance artistic expression with product showcasing
• Develop the ability to create "accessible editorial" looks that inspire without alienating
• Learn to translate editorial concepts to complement rather than overshadow the product

Conclusion: The Artistic Frontier

Editorial makeup represents the artistic frontier of the visagiste's craft—a space where technical mastery meets unbounded creativity. By understanding the principles behind successful editorial work and developing your unique approach, you can create impactful visual statements that push the boundaries of beauty.

Remember that the most compelling editorial makeup isn't just technically impressive—it communicates ideas, evokes emotions, and contributes to cultural dialogues about beauty, identity, and artistic expression. As you develop your editorial makeup skills, focus not just on how to create striking looks, but on what you want those looks to say.